I miss London, it’s a place that feel exciting. It’s got museums, great food and wonderful nightlife. It’s a long time since I’ve lived there, 15 years now, but the excitement of taking the train “into town” has never gotten old for me.

In the last 15 years it’s still the same city, but the details have clearly changed. From the old peoples house the entry into London is Waterloo on the South Bank of the river. The South Bank has maybe seen the biggest change of anywhere over the years since I lived there.

Fifteen years ago it was something of a concrete waste land full of badly maintained brutalism architecture. The National Theatre, Haywood and the rest of the imposing South Bank Centre were in desperate need of significant work.

Brutalist Architecture at it's "best"

To the west sits County Hall, the former seat of the now defunct Greater London Council. Who were one of the biggest pains in Thatcher’s side for a few years, now a hotel/aquarium/tourist attraction sitting across the river from the Houses of Parliament.

Further East there was a series of largely unused warehouses, including the distinctive Oxo Tower and the empty Bankside power station. In all it was a place whose industrial legacy was on full display, and it was not pretty.

Today the area has been totally changed. The South Bank Centre has seen it’s much needed renovation completed, it’s a fantastic example of brutalist architecture that can be used every day. It’s got a number of performance spaces and a couple of great restaurants including the Skylon.

County Hall and the London Eye from Westminster Bridge

The Oxo Tower along with a number of other ware houses underwent a very sympathetic renovation and boasts perhaps the best restaurant in London. I had maybe my best meal ever there on my previous visit.

While there has been a lot of change, the biggest addition is unquestionably the London Eye. It took a long time to finally get to ride it, and was worth the wait. One time a bathroom break by my mother caused us to miss the final available tickets of the day. It’s spectacular, I’d like to ride it on a clear night. One day perhaps.

The view from the third floor gallery towards St Pauls

The former Bankside Power station is now the Tate Modern. The power station was converted in great modern art museum to house the Tate’s fantastic collection. The main turbine hall is huge space open to temporary installations on a huge scale.

The changes have all been for the good, the South Bank has moved from slightly scruffy and not terribly welcoming, to somewhere offering so much and maybe my favourite piece of London now.

3 Comments

  • I love London, it’s a great city to visit and never gets old. Not spent much time on the South bank but have been to county hall a few times.

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